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Vercors Overview

The Vercors National Park is a limestone plateaux some 50 miles (N/S) by about 35 miles (E/W) and is located just south of Grenoble in the French Alps. The main towns and villages are situated about 1000m ASL, whilst the dramatic, unbroken east ridge peaks at 2341m ASL at the Grand Veymont. Politically and commercially, the National Park is two distinct areas separated by the Bourne Gorge. Whilst no where in the Vercors can be considered overtly touristic, the north is more commercial and does cater more for the tourist trade, mainly due to the importance of Villard-de-Lans, Correncon , Meaudre and Autrans as major skiing resorts. The countryside is also more dramatic than the south, with the magnificent Grand Moucherolle (second highest peak in the Vercors) dominating the skyline from just about anywhere. Whilst all towns and villages in the park have their own local shopping, the only supermarket within the park is located in the north (the Intermarche at Lans-en-Vercors which also has the cheapest fuel, next door to Le Bricolage, the only DIY shed in the park, and really worth

wandering around).

 

In contrast, the southern Vercors is more rural, with villages catering more for the local communities than tourists (so prices will be cheaper). The gentle river valley of the Vernaison, contains the main villages of La Chapelle and St Agnan, with La Chapelle being the main village in the south.

 

Most activities will also be primarily situated in either the north or south of the park, so to cut down on driving (it can take an hour to drive from La Chapelle to Villard for example - it's not the distance, but the nature of the roads!) it is best to decide up front, whether you will base your stay in the north or the south.

 

Getting There: The most direct route is the motorway, which now starts at Calais docks. A26 to St Quentin, Reims, Troyes. A5 to Langres. A31 to Dijon. A6 to Lyon payage. Then immediately after the Lyon payage follow signs to Grenoble and eventually the A48 (to Grenoble). For the north of the Vercors, leave the motorway at the Grenoble payage and follow signs for Sassenage and Villard-de-Lans (N532 and D531. For the south Vercors, take the A49 (direction Valence) before the Grenoble payage to Junction 9 (St. Romans and Pont-en-Royans). Follow directions to Pont-en-Royans and then take the D518 to La Chapelle-en-Vercors via the new tunnel at the head of the Grands

Goulets (about 40 minutes from Junction 9)

 

Maps:

The following three French IGN 1:25000 maps should suffice for a first visit:

3236 OT Villard-de-Lans

3136 ET Combe Laval

3235 OT Autrans

They are available mail order from Stanfords in London

 

Accommodation:

Nearly all villages have camp sites and gites and the local Tourist Information office can provide details (main offices are in Villard-de-Lans and La Chapelle). Generally prices will be cheaper in the south than in the north. From experience, the best camp site in the south is Les Myrtille, just outside of La Chapelle, which is a sheltered site with good facilities, a small snack bar and a free pool (when the weather permits). La Chapelle is a good centre with a useful selection of shops (including a good book shop for guide books) good bars, good food

shops and a sun trap swimming pool).

 

In the north, a popular camp site for visiting Brit cavers is  l’Oursiere at Villard, which is within easy walking of the shops and bars of Villard-de-Lans.

 

There are many gites in the Vercors and you should refer to the respective Office of Tourism web sites for details.

 

SITE SEEING:

 

SHOW CAVES: (All French show caves give a "reduction pour le speleo"). The Choranche (in the Bourne Gorge) is one of the finest show caves you will ever see. The Luirre, is interesting if you understand the hydrology of the Vercors – it resurerges at the Bournillion. Draye Blanche is exceptionally and surprisingly beautiful. Not quite a show cave, but an interesting afternoons walk which you could combine with a visit to the Choranche show cave is the Bournillion – the largest cave entrance in Europe. Continue down valley (towards Pont) from the Choranche turning, and take the first turning on the left (very sharp turn). Follow this narrow road (care) down into the valley, drive through the water works, turn right and park in the lay bye on the left near the Big Green Pipe. Then just follow the footpath that goes under the pipe.

On route to the cave entrance, you will have a superb view of the Moulin Marquis waterfall, and canyon.

 

GORGES: You will not be able to avoid the Bourne Gorge and the Grand Goulets (now sadly not so dramatic since the completion of the by-pass tunnel), but an interesting car journey (if you are going to Expe) is to come back via St. Gervais (north of Pont en Royans) and drive up past the Canyon Ecouge – it’s a grade 5! And if you have a rainy day, why not drive down to Die (famous for it’s market on Wednesday mornings) via the incredible Col du Rousset. (If you park at the Rousset ski station, you can take the chair lift up on to the Mountain du Beure where there are some fine views and a table de Orientation.

 

THE RESISTANCE: Due to the fortress like nature of the Vercors, the local Resistance, during WWII (March 1941 - August 1944), were able to defend the Vercors for a long time. It was only after a massive parachute assault by the Germans, that the Vercors finally fell. Because of the resistance put up by the French, the Germans then proceeded to mercilessly bomb the place. They also mercilessly butchered and tortured as many of the Resistance and their families that they could find. Many of the Vercors roads pass through gorges and cuttings. These places were "held" by the Resistance, and, by looking carefully, plaques can be found, in memory of the men who were killed at their post. And not only on roadsides. At several mountain passes, at a high level on many of the ridges, again, plaques can be found.

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Vercors Caving - An Overview

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The Vercors became popular with UK cavers following the outrageous British expeditions to the Gouffre Berger in the early '60's led by Ken Pierce. The more discerning cavers realised that there was a truly beautiful and secret corner of France beyond the Sornin plateau. Word has spread slowly ever since.

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Generally, caving in the Vercors is (due to the geology) split into regions. In the north east (from the Moucherolle up to the Sornin Plateau) the caves are very deep and demanding. They are also extremely weather dependant, and due to extremes of weather (it can be too hot to approach them in summer, and too risky to descend them in unsettled weather) are generally descended by local cavers in the depths of winter, when the ski infrastructure is used to aid access. In the north west (Autrans and Meaudre areas) there are many fine systems, few could be described though as "holiday caving". (Holiday caving; caves that can be completed in a day without adopting multi day "siege" tactics or requiring long approach walks).   

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In the south, the Herbouillty Plateau contains many caves of varying depth and difficulty and is the subject of a guide book of it's own (now sadly long out of print).  The area bordering the Vernaison  river valley contains many caves of varying difficulty, including the impressive Luire system, just south of St. Agnan, which resurges at the Bournillon (the largest cave entrance in Europe). In the south west can be found Scialet Michelierre (near Vassieux) and further west still on the Font d'Urle plateau are numerous excellent caves including Scialet II des Chuats, now over 42k long which also resurges at the Bournillon.  Generally, the caves of the southern Vercors are more suitable to "holiday caving". 

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Published Information on Vercors Caving;

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Given the number of caves in this region (in excess of 3,000 of various descriptions and development) it is frustrating to find so little published information on them. Long out of print are;

 

Grottes and Scialets du Vercors;  "the Bible" published in two parts (1978 and 1979) these listed the complete inventory of Vercors caves when they were published. The books are now extremely rare, although photocopies of them appear from time to time. The inventory is maintained by the annual "Scialet" (for the north of the Vercors) and "LSD" (Les Speleo Dromois) for the south.

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Also out of print are;

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Connaissance et Decouverte du Vercors Souterrain (Herbouilly area 1978)

Paysages du Vercors Souterraine (1981)

Moucherolle Souterraine (1988)

Speleo dans le Vercors (tomes 1 & 2 Edisud 1997 & 1999) are the most recently published guide books which contain accurate descriptions of a selection of classic Vercors caves, although both books are now difficult to find.

Caves of the Vercors by Des Marshall contains useful information on access, but as essentially a transcription of a much earlier French guide book, which was acknowledged to have many inaccuracies, should not be considered definitive in its descriptions.

Premiers pas Sous Terre (Didier Richard) lists caves suitable for novices and children butb is now long out of print.

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Expe (at Pont en Royans) stock some back issues of both Scialet and LSD.

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Some suggestions for a first time visit would be;

Grotte de Gournier; (requires a dinghy to cross the entrance lake) two trips, one to admire the enormous fossil passages and formations, the other to explore the active upstream system.

Scialet Mallaterre; a 400ft deep shaft of two 200ft pitches from a bridge across the entrance.

Scialet l'Appel; a superb active river system, reached via an entertaining fossil entrance series. 

Scialet Cloches; an easy ice cave with impressive ice formations if the previous winter has been hard.

Grotte du Berger; an easy afternoon trip in a horizontal system reached via an interesting walk on the side of a big cliff.

Scialet Graille; an easy trip into an impressive series of chambers containing staggering stal columns - take a camera.

Scialet Michellier; A fine series of pitches leading into an impressive fossil series, which is still being explored by local cavers. Care; the formations (calcite and mud)  in the main passage are beautiful and very fragile.

Trou Spinette; An impressive vertical system that provides superb caving down to -291m, after which it's character changes significantly (total depth 460m)

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The only caving shop in the area is Expe just outside Pont en Royans (good bars) Follow the D518 out of Pont in the direction of St. Marcellin and before going up hill, take the D531 to the left and Expe is on a small trading estate a couple of k's further on, on the right.

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Warning; All active caves in the Vercors are weather dependant and water levels within the caves react very quickly to rain. The catchment area for these caves is MASSIVE, so please be aware of local weather forecasts (the local Tourist Information office provides accurate weather forecasts - if you can read French!) Always remember that you are in a foreign country. The language is different and the Speleo Secours (French cave rescue) is not around the corner at Clapham!

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